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Sunday, 2 November 2014

The best desi food in Karachi - where to find the most mouth-watering Pakistani cuisine in the city

Seekh Kebab, Gola Ganda, Chicken Tikka, Nihari and Live BBQ in Karachi
                                          Karachi's cuisine is some of the best in the world                      Photos: Iman Mufti
The best desi food in Karachi? The choice is endless. We have some of the best barbeque in the world – sizzling, spicy and tender. Your taste buds are in for a treat whether you choose seekh kebabs, malai boti, behari kebab, kheeri or chicken tikka. Perfect with fresh parathas or piping hot naan straight from the tandoor. Moving away from BBQ, is there anything like a perfectly balanced Karahi or Biryani? Or you can go for fiery, glutinous Nihari generously sprinkled with ginger, coriander and chillis. Finish up with halwa poori, shahi tukra or kulfi falooda and you have a meal fit for a rajah.


Live BBQ at Meerut
                                                                                Fresh barbeque at Meerut                                         Photo: Iman Mufti


So where can you find the most authentic Pakistani cuisine? Be prepared to venture away from the rarefied atmosphere of 5 star places for the best desi food in town. Although posher versions of Karachi’s favourite eateries are popping up at Port Grand and in Clifton, there are those that swear that too much hygiene kills the flavor. The majority of the most renowned Pakistani food restaurants are quite basic. We’re talking plastic chairs, bare formica tables, maybe a few flies and a school cafeteria vibe – and that’s in the ones that have a family hall. Elsewhere you may end up dining in your car.


Cafeteria style seating at Zahid Nihari
                                              School cafeteria style seating at Zahid Nihari                                     Photo: Iman Mufti
For a classier atmosphere without compromising on taste you can head to BBQ Tonight, Kolachi, Abdul Ghaffar in Port Grand or Zameer Ansari in Ocean Mall. But once in a while it’s good to leave your nakhray at home – great food is worth a little discomfort. Despite being basic, the best desi restaurants serve great, flavorsome, tasty food and they have such a high turnover that freshness is guaranteed. You can go for takeout but the taste is not the same – there’s nothing like eating food fresh from the fire.

Waheed Kebab House

Waheed Kebab House off Burns Road in Karachi
                                                       Waheed Kebab House off Burns Rd Karachi                                Photo: Iman Mufti

Situated off Burns Road (otherwise known as Karachi’s food street), Waheed Kebab House is famous for its ‘Fry Kebab’. These are sautéed in butter not ghee, look like a plate of runny mince and have a mind-blowing taste.

Seekh Kebabs at Waheed Kebab House
           Seekh Kebabs at Waheed Kebab House    Photo: Iman Mufti
The menu at Waheed Kebab House Karachi
The menu at Waheed Kebab House
Their dhaga kebab is another firm favourite and their nihari is rated by many. They also serve a wide range of BBQ items including kheeri, beef boti and chicken tikka as well as qorma and daal.

Zameer Ansari

Ocean Grill - Zameer Ansari's upscale branch at Ocean Mall
                                           Ocean Grill - Zameer Ansari's upscale branch at Ocean Mall                       Photo: Iman Mufti

Zameer Ansari now has a posh branch at Ocean Mall but the original is located in the Delhi Mercantile Society, Bahadurabad near Alamgir Masjid. Their BBQ is some of the best in town. Must-try items include their dhaga kebab, reshmi kebab and chicken malai boti. Add a little chutney and a freshly fried poori paratha for a memorable meal – even if you do end up eating in the car because seating can be an issue.

Kulfi at Zameer Ansari
                                                                  Kulfi at Zameer Ansari's Ocean Grill                                       Photo: Iman Mufti


Sheikh Abdul Ghaffar Kebab House

The original Sheikh Abdul Ghaffar Kebab House off Tariq Road
                                        The original Sheikh Abdul Ghaffar Kebab House off Tariq Road                       

Although they have a upmarket branch at Port Grand, the original Sheikh Abdul Ghaffar Kebab House is located in a side lane off Tariq Road not too far from Naheed Supermarket. It’s a multi-story restaurant right next to Riyaz Masjid and has a family hall as well as a rather nice rooftop for family groups.
Chicken Tikka at Sheikh Abdul Ghaffar Kebab House
                                      Sizzling Chicken Tikka at Sheikh Abdul Ghaffar Kebab House             Photo: Iman Mufti

Their behari chicken and gola kebabs are stupendous and their dhaga kebab and malai boti rival those at Zameer Ansari. They also serve bun kebabs and paratha rolls for those wanting a street food fix. Their desi sweets are also pretty awesome and their sujji ka halwa is divine.

Zahid Nihari

Nihari at Zahid Nihari in Karachi
                              Fresh Nihari at Zahid Nihari                 Photo: Iman Mufti

Nihari is something that Karachi-ites are passionate about. That fiery, sticky sauce, the melt-in-your-mouth meat and the fresh garnish of ginger and coriander give a spicy hit like no other. While Javed Nihari in the federal B area and Sabri Nihari on MA Jinnah Road have many fans, Zahid Nihari on Tariq Road serves possibly the best nihari in Karachi. Succulent and more-ish, the nihari is the star of the menu although they also offer biryani and kheema. You can choose nihari with added bone marrow or brain and they even sell tin-packed nihari, which is popular with overseas Pakistanis.

Meerut

Meerut at Gurumandir
                                          The original Meerut at Gurumandir           Photo: Xishan for Google Earth
The original Meerut Kebab house is at Gurumandir though there are several locations now ranging from North Nazimabad to DHA Phase 4. The seating at the original is basic but plentiful. Their Kheeri is amazing but tends to run out so go early if you want to sample it. They also serve great behari kebab, seekh kebabs, malai boti and kebab paratha. Well worth a trip.



Poori Parathas at Meerut
                                                    Fresh Poori Parathas at Meerut                                  Photo: Iman Mufti


BBQ Tonight

BBQ Tonight Clifton
BBQ Tonight at Bilawal Roundabout, Clifton
Located at Bilawal Chowrangi, BBQ Tonight is a Karachi institution. With four floors of seating plus rooftop seating, it’s absolutely massive but retains the same quality of food and speedy service that made it famous. Its very clean, with waiters in white cotton gloves, and is one of the few places where you can trust the chutneys if you have a sensitive stomach. Their mutton chops, seekh kebab, behari kebab and beef ribs are excellent. They also serve delicious prawn masala and Afghani boti.

Reshmi Kebab at  BBQ Tonight Clifton
                                Reshmi Kebabs at BBQ Tonight                 Pic: BBQ Tonight Facebook page


Kolachi

Kolachi, Do Darya, Karachi
Kolachi has a great ambience and fabulous food
Kolachi rivals any of Karachi’s top restaurants, both in terms of atmosphere and quality of food. Located at Do Darya, Kolachi’s terraced seafront setting is simply beautiful. The menu includes a wide range of barbeque and other Pakistani dishes. Their fried fish, Sajji, Handi chicken, Hunza Kebab and Peshawari karahi are all particularly delicious.

The food at Kolachi Restaurant in Karachi
A selection of Kolachi's delicious food

Most of these restaurants serve traditional desserts including halwa, kheer and kulfi. However if you are looking for an iced treat to end your meal you may want to venture farther afield. Try gola ganda from one of the many vendors at Dhorajee, or a crunch kulfu from Iceberg in Saddar.  Alternatively head to the original Peshawari icecream in Saddar – their Anwar Rattol, Shareefa and Pistachio icecreams are unrivalled.


Gola Gunda at Dhorajee Roundabout
Gola Gandas are a sticky confection of shaved ice, vivid syrups and condensed milk - the ones from Dhorajee are amazing
Pic: Iman Mufti
If you live in Defence or Clifton and don’t want to venture too far afield, you can head to Boat Basin. They have very good bethak-style tandoori places and restaurants selling all kinds of authentic, delicious Pakistani food.  Try Roll Inn for Paratha rolls, Flamingo for Chaat and Tandoori for Karahi. Nihari Inn’s nihari and kunna are very good and there are several places that sell great bun kebabs and halwa poori. There’s even a branch of Hanifia, with its famous hunter beef buns.

Bun Kebab - Karachi Street Food
                                Burgers are all very well but sometimes nothing but a bun kebab will do            Pic: Salima Feerasta

 

These are some of Karachi’s most famous desi restaurants but there are many little restaurants all over town serving amazing local food. Everyone has their own favourites – from Anwar Baloch’s Karahi to the kali mirch karahi at Afridi Inn to the epic malai boti at Delhi Kebabish. Which are your go-to restaurants for the best Pakistani food in Karachi?


This article of mine first appeared on Dawn.com

You may also like to read my picks of the 5 best upscale restaurants in Karachi and the 5 best cafes in Karachi.

3 comments:

  1. I will definitely bookmark this post as for my visit to karachi in coming months. For me its like a traditional way to explore the karachihood!
    xFotopedia

    ReplyDelete
  2. Good compilation! Up for trying a couple of places mentioned.

    ReplyDelete

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